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2018-09-19 – WBCCI 2018 Southwest Adventure Caravan – Day 32 – Zion National Park adjacent

Slow, quiet day today.  We need one of these every now and then…

We slept in, caught up on the blog, and read the newspaper; we walked around a bit…

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We did walk across the street to the Pipe Springs National Monument… It is an historic site documenting the life and times of the Mormons in this area.  The irony is that these 40 acres are in the middle of the Kaibab Paiute Reservation…

The Indians, of course, have been in this area forever.

The water of Pipe Spring has made it possible for plants, animals, and people to live in this dry desert region.  Ancestral Puebloans and Kaibab Paiute Indians gathered grass seeds, hunted animals, and raised crops near the springs for at least 1,000 years.  The land at that time was rich is grasses, not desert sand as it is today…

In the 1860s Mormon pioneers from St. George, Utah, led by James M. Whitmore brought cattle to the area, and a large cattle ranching operation was established.  In 1866 the Apache, Navajo and Paiute tribes of the region joined the Utes for the Black Hawk War, and they raided Pipe Spring and killed Mr. Whitmore and his ranch foreman.  The  ranch was later purchased by Brigham Young for The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (Mormon Church), and a fort was built over the top of Pipe Spring.  The LDS Bishop of nearby Grafton, Utah, Anson Perry Winsor, was hired to operate the ranch and maintain the fort, soon called “Winsor Castle”. This isolated outpost served as a way station for people traveling across the Arizona Strip, that part of Arizona separated from the rest of the state by the Grand Canyon.

The main function of the ranch was to accept tithes from the local Mormons, in the form of cows, chickens, etc.  The ranch fed the animals, and milked the cows and made cheese, and shipped it all off on weekly trips to St. George, Utah.

The Pipe Spring area also served as a refuge for polygamist wives during the 1880s and 1890s. The LDS Church lost ownership of the property through penalties involved in the federal Edmunds-Tucker (Anti-Polygamy) Act of 1887.

In the mean time, overgrazing from as many as 100,000 cattle decimated the grasslands; the topsoil soon blew away, and the land was left with the desert sand and sagebrush we see today.  There are attempts in the area, through better grazing practices, to bring back the grasslands.

As the Mormons took over the ranch lands, the local Indians were deprived of their main water source, and times were hard on the Paiute.  However, they continued to live in the area and by 1907 the Kaibab Paiute Indian Reservation was established, surrounding the privately owned Pipe Spring ranch. In 1923, the Pipe Spring ranch was purchased and set aside as a national monument to be a memorial to western pioneer life.

The Winsor Castle has been restored, as well as several smaller cabins.  The tours are very informative, and “living history” is on view in the form of a lady demonstrating the use of a spinning wheel, and a blacksmith using a primitive forge.

This is Winsor Castle… We were met at the entrance by the NPS tour guide…

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The interior of the castle are typical of a well-made outpost such as this…

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This is the entrance to the Spring Room.  The spring water ran through here, keeping the room at about 55 degrees (perfect for wine, but these were Mormons living here…).

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We saw some of the out-buildings and cabins for visitors… Interesting earthen roof…

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We watched the spinning wheel lady doing her thing…

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The view of the area known as the Arizona Strip… More on this tomorrow…

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After a few hours we walked back to the RV Park and relaxed and did laundry…

We drove to Kanab for dinner at a very nice, and very busy, French Restaurant.  It has only been open for 6 weeks.  We wished we could have spoken with the proprietor and learn more, but as I said, it was packed – on a Wednesday evening…!

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And an enjoyable time was had by all…

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2018-09-18 – WBCCI 2018 Southwest Adventure Caravan – Day 31 – Zion National Park

Today we explored Zion National Park…

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Yes, more rocks… But different rocks, and different colored rocks…

Zion National Park is an national park located in Southwestern Utah near the city of Springdale.  A prominent feature of the 229-square-mile park is Zion Canyon, which stretches 15 miles long and spans up to half a mile deep.  It cuts through the reddish and tan-colored Navajo Sandstone by the North Fork of the Virgin River.  The lowest point in the park is 3,666 ft at Coalpits Wash and the highest peak is 8,726 ft at Horse Ranch Mountain.  Located at the junction of the Colorado Plateau, Great Basin, and Mojave Desert regions, the park has a unique geography and a variety of life zones that allow for unusual plant and animal diversity.

Zion National Park includes mountains, canyons, buttes, mesas, monoliths, rivers, slot canyons, and natural arches.  Human habitation of the area started about 8,000 years ago with small family groups of Native Americans;  however, these Indians moved away by 1300 and were replaced by other Southern Paiute subtribes.  Mormons came into the area in 1858 and settled there in the early 1860s.  In 1909, President William Howard Taft named the area Mukuntuweap National Monument in order to protect the canyon.  In 1918, the acting director of the newly created National Park Service, Horace Albright, drafted a proposal to enlarge the existing monument and change the park’s name to Zion National Monument, a name used by the Mormons.  According to historian Hal Rothman: “The name change played to a prevalent bias of the time.  Many believed that Spanish and Indian names would deter visitors who, if they could not pronounce the name of a place, might not bother to visit it.  The new name, Zion, had greater appeal to an ethnocentric audience.”  On November 20, 1919, the United States Congress established the monument as Zion National Park, and it was signed by President Woodrow Wilson.  The Kolob section was proclaimed a separate Zion National Monument in 1937, but was incorporated into the park in 1956.

We left the RV park at just before 6:00 am, Utah time… Wow! It is really dark out here!

Light finally came just as we arrived at Zion, just after 7:00 am.

The entrance station was still closed.  We entered the tunnel (1.1 mile long, took 3 years to complete in the 1930s…) and emerged to the sun rising over the valley below…

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Maybe I should have cleaned my windshield…

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As we drove through the almost deserted park we recalled that we had been told that Zion is the 3rd most visited national park in the USA, yet it is one of the smaller parks.  We were arriving early precisely to avoid these expected crowds.

As we drove to the visitor center we found many interesting sights as the rising sun began to hit the higher peaks…

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We arrived at the visitors center (which was not yet open) and parked.  We then walked the Pa’rus Trail, along the Virgin River for about 1 1/2 miles…

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Lynda went off-road to get a picture of the rapids…

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The sun continued to reveal move sights…

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We arrived at Canyon Junction, where we caught the shuttle to the Lodge…

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We had a nice late breakfast in the second floor dining room, then set out to walk the Lower Emerald Pool Trail… Only one mile, round trip…

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Finally we arrived at the “waterfall”… More of a “wet wall”…

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The pool was a little bit emerald…

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Now we see falling water…

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Falling into the Emerald Pool…

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We back-tracked to the lodge and caught the shuttle to Temple of Sinawava… They tried to explain which rocks looked like a temple, but I didn’t see it…

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We are following the Virgin River, once again, about two miles round trip.  At the top of the canyon is “The Narrows”.  In the mean time, we see the flora and fauna…

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If you squint, and imagine it 100 times as big, it almost looks like a bear… Lynda says she wants to see a bear…

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Finally we reach the end of the trail.  No, this is not a throng of Mormons being baptized… This is where “The Narrows” begins.  To see the narrows up close, where the canyon walls are only 20′ apart, you need to hike upstream through the water for about a mile… We didn’t…

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We were not about to walk in the river, so we returned along the path, seeing the canyon from the other direction…

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At the trail head we caught the shuttle back to the visitors center, and thus to the Big Red Truck.  As we headed out of the park we saw the sights that we missed by arriving when it was still dark…

img_5475img_5476img_5479img_5480img_5481img_5482img_5483 We emerged from the tunnel… and we were on our way…

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We returned to Kanab, where we enjoyed a late lunch at the Wild Thyme Cafe.  We returned to The Villa, where the AC was running strong (it is 93 degrees today…), took a nap, and had Happy Hours…

And an enjoyable time was had by all…

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2018-09-15 – WBCCI 2018 Southwest Adventure Caravan – Day 28 – Bryce Canyon National Park

Today we enjoyed the famous Mule-Horse Trail Ride down into the amphitheater of Bryce Canyon National Park…

I had heard from previous caravaners that this ride was terrifying – that the mules walk along the outer edge of the trail above vertical cliffs, that the mules make turns at the last minute, when their heads are cantilevered over the vast emptiness below.  Frankly, I found that the ride was more like the kiddie pony rides offered at Griffith Park…

We began our adventure at the corral, where, after an excruciatingly long wait, we were shown to our trusty steeds…

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Finally we set out down the trail… at a plodding pace…

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The first thing we enjoyed along the trail was to be up close with the hoodoos and pinnacles and other rock formations here…

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All along the trails, up, and down, these mules and horses walked at their plodding pace.  They walk these trails twice a day, and they have been doing it for years.  They are sure footed and very responsive, plodding along, following the animal in front of them.  Very little drama…

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After an hour and a half we returned to the corral…

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Upon dismounting, we learned that our limbs had been stretched into an unusual position for the last two hours.  Getting them back to their normal positions took a little time… We were not alone – everyone was walking funny…

All in all, it was interesting.  I wouldn’t exactly call it fun.  Interesting to see these animals do there jobs, interesting to see how other people react to the animals… It was great to see the rocks up close… And it was not terrifying or dangerous…

We returned to the RV park, stopping along the way for fuel and groceries.  We relaxed in The Villa, watching football… After all, it is Saturday…!  Too bad, Auburn, UCLA, Florida State, USC…

We walked about a bit. We found a lake nearby, and we found teepees that you can rent if you want to camp this way…

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We shared happy hours from 5:00 to 9:30 with several other caravaners…

And an enjoyable time was had by all…

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2018-09-14 – WBCCI 2018 Southwest Adventure Caravan – Day 27 – Bryce Canyon National Park

We slept in a bit today, then caught the shuttle into Bryce Canyon National Park…

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Bryce Canyon National Park  is an national park located in southwestern Utah. The major feature of the park is Bryce Canyon, which despite its name, is not a canyon, but a collection of giant natural amphitheaters along the eastern side of the Paunsaugunt Plateau. Bryce is distinctive due to geological structures called hoodoos, formed by frost weathering and stream erosion of the river and lake bed sedimentary rocks. The red, orange, and white colors of the rocks provide spectacular views for park visitors.  The rim at Bryce varies from 8,000 to 9,000 feet.

The Bryce Canyon area was settled by Mormon pioneers in the 1850s and was named after Ebenezer Bryce, who homesteaded in the area in 1874.  The area around Bryce Canyon was originally designated as a national monument by President Warren G. Harding in 1923 and was redesignated as a national park by Congress in 1928. The park covers 35,835 acres…

We took the shuttle around the main amphitheater to Bryce Point, elev. 8,300′.  We walked the Rim Trail, overlooking the amphitheater.  Along the way we passed Inspiration Point, Sunset Point, and Sunrise Point, elev. 8,000′.  Along the way were several ups and downs, so we had our fair share of elevation change.

Needless to say, the views were spectacular.  All along the way we saw, well, rocks…

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We found a spot to rest from time to time…

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And, in the event we need a picture of me for my funeral, we have this…

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We kept walking and saw amazing things…

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See the hands…

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See the cathedral with flying buttresses…

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This was the viewpoint at Bryce Point, where we started…

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Single photos don’t do it justice, so I was forced to use the panorama mode…

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This is where the path is on the ridge, with the amphitheater on one side and forest on the other…

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We arrived at the end of today’s trail…

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We found our way to the Lodge – typical National Park Lodge, only smaller.

The Bryce Canyon Lodge was built by the Utah Parks Company, a subsidiary of the Union Pacific Railroad, as part of the railroad’s project to develop tourist traffic to Bryce, Zion and the Grand Canyon by providing noteworthy destination hotels at each park.  The Union Pacific was following in the footsteps of other railroads’ efforts to promote the western parks of the United States and Canada.  Architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood was in charge of the design work for the Union Pacific hotels.  Construction at the Bryce Lodge started in 1924 and was completed in the early summer of 1925. The guest wings were added in 1926 and the auditorium in 1927.  Tourists were brought by train to Cedar City, Utah, where they were taken by custom 11 passenger bus-limousines to the various national park lodges.

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We had a nice lunch to refresh ourselves after the ordeal of our “hike”…

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After lunch we peaked around the lodge to see what we could see…

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We returned to the RV Park, via the shuttle, and rested up for our evening out.

Tonight we go to Ebeneezers Cowboy Barn and Grill, for dinner and a show.  This has been a tradition of the Southwest Caravan for many years.  Remember that Ebeneezer Bryce settled this land, so the name is an homage to him… It is a very large dining room (approximately 300-400 people), not exactly a barn, but certainly as ugly as one…

Even though it is less than a mile from the RV park, everyone has to drive their truck… Because, Utah…

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We waited outside until they opened the doors…

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We did get a table up front.  I wasn’t sure if this was a good idea, or not…

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We shared the table with three other Airstream couples…

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The food was quite good for a mass buffet, and the “band” (three guitar players/singers) was very talented.  They made the show seem very casual and improvised and addressed directly to us, the audience.  However, I would hazard a guess that if we returned tomorrow night we would see the EXACT same casual and improvised show…

We returned to The Villa and turned in…

And an enjoyable time was had by all…

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2018-09-09 – WBCCI 2018 Southwest Adventure Caravan – Day 22 – Relaxing and driving the La Sal Loop…

We had a leisurely morning , then we drove out along the Colorado River again.  We turned off the highway about 20 miles from here, and followed the La Sal Loop Road into a beautiful Valley…

img_5115img_5117img_5121 About 4 miles in we turned off into Castle Valley, a semi-residential area.  This valley is unlike anything we have seen in Utah.  All green – even the rock-faced mountains…

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We found what appears to be “ancient” construction and some well-built old houses…

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We returned to the main loop road and continued on…

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As we ascended higher into the hills we were surrounded with views of the “pygmy” forest… None of these trees are much higher than 20 feet, but it is beautiful!

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We came upon what looked to be alpine meadows…

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And fall colors!

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After we crested the summit we could see the Moab valley far below…

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We returned to the highway which leads back into Moab.  We stopped at the Moab Brewery and Distillery for a little lunch and a sample of their spirits…

We returned to The Villa and it was hot!  We cranked up the AC and I took a nap…

Tonight we had a short music presentation by the family that owns the RV Park.  It was,  surprisingly, a lot of fun…!

After the music we had a drivers meeting – tomorrow we head to Torrey and Capitol Reef National Park…

And an enjoyable time was had by all…

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2018-09-08 – WBCCI 2018 Southwest Adventure Caravan – Day 21 – Dead Horse Point State Park and Canyonlands National Park

Another long day enjoying the beauty that is Utah…

We started with Dead Horse Point State Park.  This park in on one of the many mesas or plateaus, with steep cliffs all around dropping precipitously into the canyon below.  At the bottom of the canyons is a river.  In the case of today’s parks, it is either the Green River or the Colorado River…

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One of the fingers of the mesa sticks our as a point or peninsula, connected to the main mesa by a narrow neck, about 90 feet wide.  Legend tells the story of cowboys who rounded up a herd of wild Mustang horses.  They herded them onto the point and blocked the neck with rocks and branches.  It made for a natural corral.  But these cowboys took the horses they wanted, and left the others penned up on the point to die… Thus the name.  I don’t know if the legend is true, but it just may be apocryphal…

We do know that in the late 19th and early 20th centuries the various points were used as natural corrals for herds of sheep from time to time…

Anyhow, we drove out to the park.  Along the way we stopped off to see the Monitor and Merrimac…

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I don’t always get the images some people see in the rocks, but I’ll take their word for it…

We stopped at the Visitors Center… Quite a nice building, by the way…

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We hiked from the Visitors Center to the viewpoint of the point.  It is hot this time of the year in Moab – about 100 degrees…

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This is the point, with the narrow neck…

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And so we pressed on – lots of territory to get through today…

Canyonlands National Park has three sections, each separated by steep canyons.  Island in the Sky, Needles, and The Maze.  You cannot get from one to the other unless you hike, or have a 4WD vehicle and you drive the steep gravel roads cut into the sides of the canyons.  While we do have 4WD in the big red truck, we chose to confine our visit to Island in the Sky…

Our first stop was the Mesa Arch.  It was a short walk off the road.  What is so special is not only the view through the arch, but the fact that the arch is literally on the edge of the mesa.  Walk through it and you will drop over 1,000 feet to the canyon below…

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The drop is precipitous…

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The view through the arch is fascinating…

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The views all around show the rugged canyons below…

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Walking back to the big red truck we found it interesting that the park service builds cairns or Ebeneezers to mark the trails…

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We stopped at several overlooks and viewed the canyons below…

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We found these posters interesting in that they explained why the canyons and mountains look like they do…

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But it was time to go.  We headed back to The Villa and relaxed.  It was close to 100 degrees, so we huddled inside with the AC on.  We had a little Happy Hours and light supper.

This evening we had another Fandango, meeting new friends.  We had met all the folks already, but we still enjoyed learning a bit more about their lives.

After the Fandango, when we returned to The Villa, we found that college football was in full force.  Great games were aplenty…

Florida was beaten by Kentucky for the first time in, like, a millennium.  Big Bad (over-rated) Clemson barely survived Texas A&M, LSU and Alabama both beat up poor Jr. College gimmie games that are so much a part of their soft schedules.  Stanfurd played U$C, which is always difficult for us, because we want them both to lose… U$C scored the fewest point against Stanfurd in 86 years, and didn’t even score a touchdown.  UCLA got walloped by another mediocre school for the second time this season, and Colorado beat Big Red Nebraska.

And, 190 miles north of here, in Provo, Utah, Cal beat BYU !  Go Bears!

And an enjoyable time was had by all…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And an enjoyable time was had by all…

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2018-09-06 – WBCCI 2018 Southwest Adventure Caravan – Day 19 – Traveling from Bluff to Moab…

We packed up and pulled out of the campground in Bluff; we are heading north to Moab, Utah.  Along the way we see typical Utah sights…

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We stopped at Wilson’s Arch…  Wilson’s Arch was named after Joe Wilson, a local pioneer who had a cabin nearby in Dry Valley. This formation is known as Entrada Sandstone. Over time superficial cracks, joints, and folds of these layers were saturated with water. Ice formed in the fissures, melted under extreme desert heat, and winds cleaned out the loose particles. A series of free-standing fins remained. Wind and water attacked these fins until, in some, cementing material gave way and chunks of rock tumbled out. 

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We pulled into The RV Park in Moab behind a few other Airstreams…

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…and ahead of a few others…

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The Portal RV park is quite nice; they even have RV sites that they have sold to seasonal residents, and some of them have vacation homes built on them… We parked in the “low rent” area…

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The offfice even has fake vigas… ’nuff said…

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The view across the highway is great… I guess every town in Utah looks like this…

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We’re all checked in…

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This evening we have a dinner together about 15 miles up a canyon bisected by the Colorado River…

We saw rafters enjoying the late afternoon sun…

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We saw amazing sights along the river…

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The Resort and Winery where we were to have dinner is a very nice modern place…

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We did a little wine tasting, and bought a nice Utah Syrah to have with dinner… Dinner was in a pavilion facing the river; we had our choice of burgers, hot dogs, or chicken… It was a lovely setting…

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We returned to The Villa in time to catch the reflection of the setting sun…

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And an enjoyable time was had by all…

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2018-09-05 – WBCCI 2018 Southwest Adventure Caravan – Day 18 – Monument Valley

Monument Valley (Navajo: Tsé Biiʼ Ndzisgaii, meaning valley of the rocks) is a region of the Colorado Plateau characterized by a cluster of vast sandstone buttes, the largest reaching 1,000 ft above the valley floor.  It is located on the Arizona–Utah border , near the Four Corners area. The valley lies within the territory of the Navajo Nation Reservation.

We traveled today with Jay and Elna, Caravan Leaders, to Gouldings, in Monument Valley.  Harry Goulding established a trading post here in the 1920s, which has grown to include a Lodge, Restaurant, RV Park, and of course, a Gift Shop…

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In the 1930s, in an effort to generate income for the Indians, Harry contacted Hollywood movie folk and arranged for the studios to shoot movies in Monument Valley.  There is a stage set of a cabin supposedly used by John Wayne in John Ford’s production of “She Wore a Yellow Ribbon”…

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Even this fake cabin had authentic construction…

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Other buildings at Gouldings are not so lovely…

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Monument Valley has been featured in many movies and TV shows since the 1930s. In the words of media critic Keith Phipps, “its five square miles have defined what decades of moviegoers think of when they imagine the American West.”

And it is stunning…

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We saw the right mitten (above) and the left mitten (below)

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We saw the castle…

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And we saw some arches… (Arches differ from Bridges in that arches are formed by erosion by wind and the freeze-thaw cycle, while bridges have (or have had) flowing water beneath them, and the primary method of erosion was from this water…)

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We were all herded into three touring trucks to see the sights…

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After some driving along rutted, gravel roads, and seeing marvelous sites, we arrived at John Ford’s Point.  John Ford like to ride his horse around here while shooting movies…  (This is not John Ford…)

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At one of our stops we saw authentic hogans, homes of the Navajo.  About 30 families live in these traditional homes deep in the valley, using traditional methods of living, with no running water or electricity.  They don’t even have cable TV!  These hogans that we saw were for display purposes and for demonstrations…

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This is a sweat lodge…

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These hogans had beautifully constructed wood roofs to support the earthen exterior covering…

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We saw more impressive structures…

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Then we reached the arches…

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This place is very awe-inspiring.  Everywhere you look you see these marvelous structures…

We returned to Gouldings, had a nice lunch in the restaurant there, and then headed back to The Villa… We had a Drivers Meeting to discuss the route of our travels tomorrow, then we had dinner and a quiet evening in The Villa…

And an enjoyable time was had by all…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And an enjoyable time was had by all…

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2018-09-02 – WBCCI 2018 Southwest Adventure Caravan – Day 15 – Mesa Verde National Park

The gray skies blew away so we decided to go on another hike.  This time we started out just adjacent to the campground.  The route was called Point Lookout Trail, and it is 2.0 miles round trip, and we will climb up, then down, 400 vertical feet…

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This is the entrance road we drove to get to the campground yesteday…

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It was fun to watch the Airstreams getting small and smaller… But we were finally done and back to The Villa.

This evening we had a joint dinner at a nearby pavilion.

And an enjoyable time was had by all…

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